Start with people, pets, and power lines
Before you look at any tree, make sure everyone is away from it. Downed limbs are often unstable and can shift without warning.
If any branch or trunk is touching or near a power line, treat it as a live electrical hazard. Stay at least 25 feet back. Call your utility company or 911 and do not touch anything. According to the International Society of Arboriculture, this is not a situation for a homeowner or a general contractor. Only a utility crew or line-clearance arborist should handle it.
How to do a ground-level assessment
Once the area is safe, walk a slow circle around each tree and look from the base up. You are looking for specific things.
Signs that need urgent attention from a professional:
- Hanging or "caught" limbs suspended in the canopy. These can fall at any time. Block off the area below and call an arborist the same day.
- A new lean that was not there before the storm, especially if the soil is heaving or cracking at the base. The root system may have partially failed.
- A split crotch or large trunk crack. When a major branch union tears, the structural load that union was carrying is now a problem. The ISA notes that split branch unions should be removed because they weaken the tree and can lead to future failure.
- Missing bark in large strips, or exposed wood that is already discolored or soft. That often points to pre-existing decay that the storm made worse.
- More than roughly 30-50% of the main branches or trunk severely split or broken. At that point, University of Tennessee Extension guidance says removal is often the right call rather than extensive repair.
Things that look bad but are often manageable:
- Small branch stubs and torn bark on minor limbs
- A few broken twigs or small branches scattered on the ground
- Leaves stripped from one side of the canopy with no structural damage underneath
Note any pre-existing problems too. Trees with decay, old cavities, or dead branches before the storm are more likely to have serious hidden damage, as the Iowa DNR points out.
What you can safely do yourself
Homeowners can clean up small, low branches that are roughly wrist-size or smaller and reachable from the ground with hand pruners or a small pruning saw. That is the limit.
When you cut, make a clean cut just outside the branch collar, the swollen ring where the branch meets a larger stem. Do not leave a stub, and do not cut flush with the trunk. The University of Tennessee Extension is clear on this: a proper collar cut gives the tree the best chance to close the wound.
Anything that requires a ladder, a chainsaw, roof access, or climbing belongs with a professional arborist. High broken limbs, heavy wood over a structure or driveway, and anything hanging are all in that category. The Michigan State University Extension is direct: homeowners should not climb or cut large downed material unless they are trained and equipped for it.
How to choose what to do next
A certified arborist can assess structural damage, spot hidden decay, and tell you whether a tree is worth saving or should come down. Look for ISA certification when you hire. Get a written assessment before any work starts, not just a verbal quote.
If you want a quick read on risk before you make calls, use the TreeNerd free tree-check tool. It walks you through the main warning signs and helps you figure out how urgent the situation is. It is not a substitute for an on-site professional, but it gives you a starting point.